Do It Yourself Lawns V

It is time for the first weed control application of the season. A crabgrass control preferably without fertilizer, which should be applied immediately to control all weed grasses (eg. crabgrass, johnsongrass, dallisgrass, foxtail and others). Then a liquid broadleaf weed control to take care of weeds like dandelion,chickweed, henbit etc. Another lime application would be a great idea if you did not get it down before all the snow last winter. Remember to get a soil analysis before liming or fertilizing to see what the soil actually needs. Happy mowing!

Do It Yourself Lawns IV

The final application for the season should be performed now or anytime the ground is not frozen. Apply pelletized lime at a rate of 1 bag or 40#'s per 2000 square feet. This will raise the ph level by about a half point. Having your soil analyzed would be preferred before performing this step, however most soils in this area are acidic anyway and need lime to raise the ph. After this step the lawn should be green until we get extremely cold and it goes dormant. Merry Christmas!

Do It Yourself Lawns III

Part III is as simple as part II. The final fertilizer application should be the highest nitrogen application, (e.g. 32-0-7) or similiar ratio. Remember to keep the leaves off of the lawn. This hinders photosynthesis from occuring. That's all til next month.

Do It Yourself Lawns II

Part II is very simple. The second application of fertilizer should be applied in October. This application should be higher in nitrogen to focus the nutrients on the root system (eg 25-0-5 or similiar ratios). As the soil temperture cools the turf roots will begin to store carbohydrates for next spring. That's all til next month. That was easy huh!

Energy Efficient Planting

Energy efficient landscapes begin with the right plant in the right place. This can contribute to reduced heating and or cooling costs. Trees are a landscape's greatest energy savers when planted in the right place. Tall trees (eg maples,oaks) should be planted 25' from a home's southside to shade south-facing windows and the roof during the summer months when the sun is highest. Broader and shorter trees (eg crape myrtle, redbud) should be planted 20-50' from a home's east and west walls to block the morning and late afternoon sun that can also overheat a home during the summer months. This should reduce the need for air conditioning, as well as cool the air through evapotranspiration. According to the EPA a building's shaded walls may be 9 to 36 degrees cooler than unshaded walls. Studies have shown that by shading 20 percent of a home- the equivalent of planting one tree to the west and another to the south- annual savings of 8 to 18 percent may be realized. Another way to save energy is by protecting a north facing wall in winter by planting an evergreen (eg cypress,holly) windbreak. I can perform a free landscape energy audit for anyone who may be interested.

Do It Yourself Lawns

My friend Rick asked if I would write a blog series for lawn do-it-yourself types. So I agreed. I hope this is helpful to Rick and anyone else who may read it. Step #1: Late summer to early fall begin by thoroughly aerating the lawn, in addition rough up any bare patches with a rake. Next apply a slow release starter fertilizer (e.g. 14-20-14). After the fertilizer apply the grass seed, preferably a quality turf-type fescue. Finally water daily for 10-15 minutes per area to keep the seed evenly moist. This should be done until the seed germinates. Note: If you use a drop spreader make two passes in perpendicular directions to avoid striping when fertilizing. Also, use a drop spreader to apply the seed around areas that you don't want grass to grow, namely mulch beds, natural areas, gravel driveways etc.

Midlothian Masterpiece

For your viewing pleasure another Midlothian landscape installed for friends. This one was partially on a steep incline at the end of a driveway which was quite challenging. Like hiking up a mountain with shrubs and shovel in hand. Before I began the homeowners rebuilt the deck and had a beautiful stamped concrete patio and steps with landings installed. This gave me a great framework to design around. The results were better than even I expected.

Chesterfield Conversion

I recently installed a landscape for friends in Chesterfield where there were almost no plants. I love blank slates! Enjoy the pictures. Sorry about the layout, I'm a landscaper not a web designer.

Mowing Height And Frequency

Mowing turf at appropriate heights and frequencies are critical to developing dense,actively growing and healthy lawns. Turf-type fescue and bluegrass should be mowed at 3-3.5", especially as we enter the late spring and summer. This will insure the turf remains dense, which will choke out potential weeds and keep the ground more moist and cool. This results in less water usage and lower weed pressure, thereby reducing the need for weed controls.

Mowing frequency is also a critical component for healthy turf. Turf should be mowed so that no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade is removed at one time (eg turf is 4" only remove 1" leaving 3"). This may mean multiple mowings in one week during the early to mid-spring peak growth period. The "One Third Rule" will help maintain maximum root growth. If this practice is not followed turf will become stressed and sometimes have a brown cast on the leaf tips. One more important practice to follow is to mulch clippings on the lawn. This will return nitrogen stored in the leaf blade back to your lawn. You paid for the fertilizer so why not keep it where it belongs. Just be sure the clippings are sufficiently mulched and not left in piles on the lawn.

While your at it keep those blades sharpened too. Happy mowing!

Landscape Renovation

Here is a link to a recent landscape renovation that I completed with and for my friend, Mike. If you're ever in need of a mechanical engineer, I would highly recommend him. http://servehim.wordpress.com/landscaping-in-progress/

What It Costs

According to the EIA (Energy Information Administration), the cost to produce and sell gasoline to consumers includes the price of crude oil, refining costs, marketing and distribution, retail station costs and taxes. For example, in June, the average cost of a gallon of gasoline was $4.05. The breakdown was as follows: 74 percent crude oil, 9 percent refining, 7 percent marketing and distribution, and 10 percent taxes. The same month, the average price of diesel fuel was $4.68 a gallon with the cost breakdown as follows: 65 percent crude oil, 17 percent refining, 8 percent distribution and marketing and 10 percent taxes.

Composting

Composting is the transformation of organic material through decomposition into a soil-like material caled compost. Invertebrates (insects & earthworms), and microorganisms (bacteria & fungi) help transform the material into compost. Composting is a natural form of recycling, which continually occurs in nature.

Disappearing Honeybees

The recent decline in honeybee populations have been caused by what is referred to as colony collapse disorder ("CCD"). This may not even be an actual disease. This "disease" is responsible for up to 90 percent of honeybee hive losses.
The "disease" interferes with the bees ability to process sensory input resulting in disorientation. When bees leave the hive they are not able to find their way back. Adult bees simply disappear, leaving behind honey, pollen, queens, etc.
There are numerous potential causes, and chances are it is multiple causes in combination with each other that may be responsible for the decline in hives and colonies. It should be noted that contrary to the environmental alarmists accusations, cell phone towers and global warming have been discredited as primary causes. If you would like more info on this study check out the Kansas State University Dept of Entymology website.

Fall Fertilization

Fall is the ideal time to fertilize turf. Among the benefits are better fall and winter color and a quicker green-up earlier in spring continuing into summer. Also, there will not be excessive blade growth as in lawns that are fertilized in spring. Other benefits that result from fall fertilization are winter survival and optimum root growth.

In basic terms it works like this: nitrogen is taken up by the roots, even though blade growth has ceased. Roots remain active during cooler temperatures. Nitrogen increases chlorophyll content, thereby enhancing color. More chlorophyll equals more photosynthesis equals increased sugars. Because turf blades are not growing during this time that sugar is being stored, winter survival and spring recovery is enhanced. As a result turf goes into spring and summer with deeper, healthier roots, and spring green-up is earlier because of the nitrogen stored in the roots.

Mowing Lawns Guilt-Free

Just in case you are a "Global Warming Alarmist" check out this report. Healthy turfgrass can capture up to four times more carbon from the air than is produced by the engine of today's lawnmowers, according to a new study from the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute. www.opei.org/carbonreport

Renovation Aftercare

Watering

Water twice daily for 3 weeks to maintain proper moisture levels for seed germination. Do not allow the seed to dry out; this reduces the germination rate. After the seed has germinated, deeper watering 2 to 3 times per week is appropriate until the lawn is established.

Mowing

Once the seed germinates and is about 3 to 3 1/2 inches high, mow it using a sharp blade. Set your mower at 3 inches or higher removing no more than 1/3 of the grass. Mowing high results in the following benefits:

· Grass roots grow deeper.

· Soil is shaded resulting in reduced water usage, as well as preventing weed seed germination.

· Reduces clippings and prevents clumps of grass from covering the new seedlings.

Do not bag clippings until the leaves fall in autumn. The clippings contain nitrogen and bagging removes this valuable nutrient from the soil.

Renovation Preparation

Now is the time to prepare the lawn for renovation. First, mow the turf lower than usual, down to 2 to 2 1/2 inches. This may take consecutive mowings over a period of a few days because mowing off more than 1/3 of the grass blade at a time will stress the turf. Next, remove all debris from the turf (e.g. leaves, sticks, gumballs, etc.) A leaf rake is ideal and will also remove some of the dead grass. Then, water heavily to soften up the ground for the aeration. Finally, flag all sprinkler heads, valve boxes, and any other underground objects that may be damaged by the aerator.