Friday, October 23, 2009

Do It Yourself Lawns II




Part II is very simple. The second application of fertilizer should be applied in October. This application should be higher in nitrogen to focus the nutrients on the root system (eg 25-0-5 or similiar ratios). As the soil temperture cools the turf roots will begin to store carbohydrates for next spring. That's all til next month. That was easy huh!

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Energy Efficient Planting




Energy efficient landscapes begin with the right plant in the right place. This can contribute to reduced heating and or cooling costs. Trees are a landscape's greatest energy savers when planted in the right place. Tall trees (eg maples,oaks) should be planted 25' from a home's southside to shade south-facing windows and the roof during the summer months when the sun is highest. Broader and shorter trees (eg crape myrtle, redbud) should be planted 20-50' from a home's east and west walls to block the morning and late afternoon sun that can also overheat a home during the summer months. This should reduce the need for air conditioning, as well as cool the air through evapotranspiration. According to the EPA a building's shaded walls may be 9 to 36 degrees cooler than unshaded walls. Studies have shown that by shading 20 percent of a home- the equivalent of planting one tree to the west and another to the south- annual savings of 8 to 18 percent may be realized. Another way to save energy is by protecting a north facing wall in winter by planting an evergreen (eg cypress,holly) windbreak. I can perform a free landscape energy audit for anyone who may be interested.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Do It Yourself Lawns





My friend Rick asked if I would write a blog series for lawn do-it-yourself types. So I agreed. I hope this is helpful to Rick and anyone else who may read it. Step #1: Late summer to early fall begin by thoroughly aerating the lawn, in addition rough up any bare patches with a rake. Next apply a slow release starter fertilizer (e.g. 14-20-14). After the fertilizer apply the grass seed, preferably a quality turf-type fescue. Finally water daily for 10-15 minutes per area to keep the seed evenly moist. This should be done until the seed germinates. Note: If you use a drop spreader make two passes in perpendicular directions to avoid striping when fertilizing. Also, use a drop spreader to apply the seed around areas that you don't want grass to grow, namely mulch beds, natural areas, gravel driveways etc.